A Taste of Russia
My first day in Russia was a disaster. We landed at the airport at 5-ish, and checked into our hotel, hit the sack and got up early only to find that the night before the Stones had played in the town’s main square and we could have bought general admission tix for a few dollars each. I was crushed, that would have been a hot show to catch. But it was all downhill from that point on…
Everything you need to know about St. Petersburg you can learn at The Grand Hotel Europe. Almost ancient by today’s standards, the hotel has been serving royalty and movie stars, presidents and potentates for nearly 150 years. Tchaikovsky and Stravinsky played on the stage in the dining room, caviar is still served with breakfast. The hotel has a cigar bar, a chocolate shop, a caviar bar, a ballroom, real art (and I do mean real, as in 19th century museum real) in the hallways and rooms, security as tight as Buckingham Palace and oh yes, did I mention real Russian gangsters in the bar at night? Hands down this is my favorite hotel in the world and I would rather spend a night, or 10, here than in any other. Every moment of every day is spent with your jaw in your lap, either the stunning opulence gets you slack mouthed and drooling or it’s the history lessons from the people you meet.
The hotel, like the city, is both a throwback to the old Russia (The Hermitage, Catherine’s Palace and so on), the good ol’ USSR (check out the graying apartment blocks that stretch for miles) and the new Russia (Mercedes, Chanel, sushi bars and a middle class). Check out the prices at the hotel…Beef Stroganov costs a fortune, but it is no longer the most popular dish at the hotel. Tuna sushi at one of the hotels 5 restaurants is. And it is consumed in massive portions by happy customers sitting streetside, watching tall skinny supermodels wheel in and out of the trendy boutiques across the street. In some respects SP is not really like Venice, thecity it is often compared to because of the canals. These days SP is more like Paris!
The hotel takes up an entire city block, massive and solid like you imagine a Russian hotel would be, but the Euro-opulence is everywhere. You are greeted by a squadron of liveried doormen and security men so beefy and Slavic they have no necks at all, just heads planted on massive shoulders. Inside, a phalanx of gorgeous 20-somethings line up to present caviar and foie gras along with a flute of champagne as you stand to check in. You are escorted by one of the lovely lasses to your room, which reminds me of the bedrooms at Versailles, there is no other way to describe it, except that flat screen TVs rise at the touch of a button, retro fitted inside 200 year old artisanal cabinetry.
The Lobby Bar at night is where all the action is. Sitting outside of the bar in the ‘on deck’ circle are several of SP’s finest courtesans. They are not part of the hotels list of amenities but they service the clientele and the hotel feigns ignorance. For a thousand euros the ladies will have a drink with you in your room and the entire week we were there we watched spellbound as international titans of industry, Asian crime lords and famous faces all took advantage of their amenities. Russia has changed, but the freewheeling wild west vibe is still alive and kicking in SP.
One of local experts was a history teacher at a high school, his wife also works 9-5, and he still needs to hold down a second job just to make ends meet. Viktor nearly cried when he took me to the meat counter at the Kuznechny market, recalling misty eyed the days of rationed canned ham. We met local art students and film costumers who ate in restaurants and danced in clubs til the wee hours, waiters in humble eateries who had visited Minnesota (my home these days), young entrepreneurs who took us to their family lake homes for wild boar barbecues, Swiss hoteliers who have taken the town by storm…there is a lot of money in Russia these days and lots of upward mobility…everyone wants their piece of the pie.
So make your way past the call girls, sidle up to the bar, order yourself a beverage and look around the room. Count the bodyguards, sip your drink, listen to the world class jazz band playing improvisations on Cole Porter standards, imagine what the conversations are like at the 30 some odd tables scattered across the parquet floors. Tip Andrei well, and he might have you escorted up to the windowless Pool Room, where there is no longer a pool table, replaced long ago by the huge conference table where Premiers, Prime Minister and Presidents have met in secret for decades. Go back down to the bar, and toast the good old days marveling at the enigma, wrapped inside a puzzle inside a conundrum that is still Russia.
Comments
Andrew,
My husband and I watch your show all the time. We like you also like to eat odd food, be are after all first generation Ukrainians (came over in '92). I wanted to write a note saying how much we appreciated your show about St. Petersburg, we thought that you did a great job showing the city and the culture especially the food.
We were very impressed and pleased to see that you also liked the banya (bath) at the dacha. We built one here (inside the house) and still enjoy it. Thanks for making Russia look hospitable and friendly. We look forward to seeing your future shows.
P.S. Have you ever tried tong with red horse radish sauce? It's delish...
Posted by: Lora Niazov | March 19, 2008 5:51 PM
My wife and I enjoyed our month-long trip to Moscow and St. Pete in July of '07. Andrew, when your St. Pete show came on, I immediately called several friends and family to tell them to tune in. You did St. Pete justice!
Posted by: Allen Espy | March 19, 2008 8:31 PM
I love your show! It's so colorful and informative! I like living vicariously through your travels. I definitely love your attitude as well. I like friendly, smily people that look happy at what they're doing. Thanks for thrills!
Posted by: Lisa | March 21, 2008 2:07 AM
This show (SP) was the first one I have ever watched, and I loved it! I really enjoyed learning about the local foods and seeing how impressed you were with practically everything you ate (except for the lamprey). The food looked great and the city did too. I love to travel and really want to visit SP someday. Thank you for the inspiration and I look forward to watching the rest of your shows.
p.s. My mom is from the Philippines and I was interested to learn that one of your episodes was shot there. My grandpa eats balut and I can't imagine how your reaction was while eating it! Now I have to watch it :)
Posted by: Kimberly | March 21, 2008 12:42 PM
I want your job so badly Mr. Zimmern, ever so badly.
I'm rewatching your Spain episode at the moment, and it's just bringing a tear to my eye. I wish I could go back to that country right now.
But anywho, I'll pass the Russia episode onto my aunt (who grew up in Moscow I believe) and uncle. They are also culinary adveturers like myself, so I'm sure it'll inspire another fun Russian salami night :)
Katie
Posted by: Katie | March 22, 2008 2:45 PM
Andrew! My family loves you when my 2 little girls watch your show its the only time they sit still! Keep it comming buddy! We just have to know have you ever ate anything that really made you sick after it digested? Haha! The Jones family. Hickory NC
Posted by: Lauren | March 22, 2008 3:02 PM
My family loved watching your show on SP. I had to laugh though...I thought you were going to drop to your knees and propose to those ladies half a dozen times in the market whenever you tasted some of the wonderful foods there!! LOL!! It is a joy to see someone enjoy their "work" so much!!
You know, I do have to tell you, I have two children - one of whom qualifies for Make a Wish. While his interests lie elsewhere, my eldest child (10 yrs old with some special needs of his own) has told me that if he had the opportunity to have a "Wish" of his own, it would be to go someplace with you and try new foods with you!!! He LOVES watching your show!! I like using your show to explain to the children about how different cultures can be.
Keep up the good work.
Posted by: JF | March 22, 2008 4:10 PM
Andrew,
My brother, my grandma and i watch every episode of your show. What do you think is your favorite place to visit outside the country. i also go down to new york city often. we went to Carnegie deli and i got the roast beef. my favorite episode was spain and i wish i could go to the restaurant you went to and have suckling pig. i wish i was you.
justin
Posted by: justin nevins | March 23, 2008 4:18 PM
good show on trinidad and tobago .their is still more good food in trinidad and tobago ,and you do not have to go so far to get it.It is right here in New York City ,liberity ave Queens .ny 11419.
Posted by: adesh maharaj | March 23, 2008 7:32 PM
Hi Andrew! My daughter and I were in St. Petersburg July 21-22 2007, and were wondering what days you were there. We loved the episode, and we watch your show all the time.
Posted by: Joan and Amanda Houston | March 24, 2008 5:19 PM
Hi, I know this will sound strange but in all your travel through Russia did you see any handicapped people? I know this is an odd question but when I was in Russia I did not see anybody in a wheelchair, blind, or even on crutches. I asked and was never give a real answer. It made sense to me that in a society that believed if you are not working for the greater good of the people then you are working against the society. I was in Russia in the early 80's. Well if you can or anyone else wants to address this let me know. Thanks, Eric..
Posted by: ERIC | March 26, 2008 5:03 AM
i am sorry but this man ANDREW ZIMMERMAN, need to learn how to show express himself better verbally than the usual, "wow thats delicious, or the "this meat has a GAMING taste". Come on you should learn to express better than that. For examples compare to a texture we are all familiar with, we all know chances are none of us are ever gonna eat a bull testicle, at least not willingly, not me. So before you say "WOW THOSE FLAVORS JUST EXPLODE IN YOUR MOUTH" relate to the public that is watching you, and giving you your ratings.
thank you
Posted by: abbie | March 26, 2008 8:58 PM
Andrew,
The Russia episode. Now the food is one thing, but that blonde in the steam room is another!!!!! :) SUPER WOW!!
Constant Watcher -Gary
Posted by: Gary | March 29, 2008 8:10 PM
Good morning Andrew,
My name is John and I travel for a living as an Engineer. I travel 5 days a week and come home for the weekend. This job can be a strain sometimes, always being gone. I enjoy watching your show (and reruns) and talking to my wife about what we watched. (she to loves it) I have always been a little adventurous when it came to food, but after your show came on the air i now search out crasy things in the differnt states/countries i visit. Thanks for giving this weary traveler something to make my road life a little more like an adventure sometimes....
PS
my work visit to trinidad/tobago did not look like yours!!
Posted by: JP | March 31, 2008 9:38 AM
abbie said:
"i am sorry but this man ANDREW ZIMMERMAN, need to learn how to show express himself better verbally than the usual...."
yes, yes... there's always someone who thinks the TV personality should be doing a better job at [insert nitpick]. Have you seen the rest of the series? He does go into detail about food's intricacies, textures, flavours, smells, etc... but not all the time. If you're eating bear, and it's gamey, what do you want him to say? The whole focus of the show is on searching "strange" food. He's not writing a food critique column.
Posted by: Livardo | April 2, 2008 12:54 PM