Variety... the spice of Bolivia!
Flying into the highest major city in the world is a little bit of a misdirection play. You land at the airport, gasp for air and if you need it you avail yourself of the free oxygen tanks while you await baggage delivery. The 10 minute trip across the plateau leaves you wondering where the heck La Paz is. After a few miles more you turn a corner and begin the descent down into the valley and can see the entire city in one magnificent vista, framed by snow capped Andean peaks and you can’t help but feel a spark of excitement. La Paz is simply thrilling.
Bolivia is an undiscovered country that offers a wide variety of climates, cultures and indigenous foods. The city of La Paz, at 11,200 feet high, is the world’s highest capital founded in 1548. A notorious haven for renegades and outlaws like Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, and Che Guevera (all of who met their deaths there,) Bolivia is not your average tourist destination. And there are reasons aplenty to talk yourself out of visiting. But even though it’s the poorest country in South America, Bolivia is surprisingly self-sufficient with ample supplies of oil, natural gas and other natural resources. What they lack is common sense leadership that isn’t just anti American but anti anyone! Everyone dislikes everyone else in Bolivia. Discontent seems to be a part of the natural order of things here, but don’t let it dissuade you from checking it out.
The first thing I had to see was the cobblestoned Calle Linares and the famed Mercado de las Brujas, or Witches Market. Witches, medicine women, and soothsayers sell medicinal herbs, llama fetuses, dried frogs and armadillos. Along the street, you’ll find a variety of talismans and old bottles with potions concocted from animal parts like boa constrictor heads. I had a coca leaf reading done to discover what my future looked like and was immediately invited by the two yathiri to attend a ceremony involving the burning of a llama fetus to ensure luck with a new business venture. We got in their car and hit the road to journey up to El Alto, a devastatingly poor barrio that has become the fastest growing city in South America. We stopped and ate some llama jerky, choclo, the local corn that looks like it’s on steroids and the popular Anticucho de corazón: beef heart with peanut-garlic sauce served on a stick. Everyone but me had a cup of coca tea- supposedly it helps avert any possible altitude sickness. Sounds fishy to me. I think aspirin and water works well. Anyway any excuse these guys could concoct to chew more leaf, they took it. I think they reached into a bag every 5 minutes for more, and by the end of the shoot they were electric, vibrating, like mini tin figurines from that old football game where the players wiggle down the field when you turn it on.
I ate the next night at La Casa de los Pacenos, housed on the 2nd floor of an old colonial building which hasn’t changed for decades. They serve cow’s tongue in chili sauce, cow’s stomach, kidney stew, vein soup, penis soup and llama with chocolate sauce. I loved it all. There is a lively restaurant scene in La Paz that combines traditional foods of Bolivia and the dishes of many cultures. Pronto Delicatessen, a more modern restaurant, is known for its “Novo Andino” where the chef prepares traditional foods (llama, quinoa and ispi) that is then influenced by the Eastern technique of combining sweet, sour and spicy…goat ravioli with Asian curry sauce, quinoa spaghetti with coca béchamel sauce. This restaurant is called experimental by some, I call it confused.
La Lucha Libre, is Bolivia’s answer to wrestling as entertainment but with a twist—the contenders are all women who wear the Bolivian traditional dress of a multilayered skirt, white pumps, shawls and traditional bowler hat. The gym where the matches take place is in El Alto, the lower-class district above the capital city of La Paz and I got to watch these colorful wrestlers prepare for their ‘shift’ in the ring. These ladies are tough and oddly sexy at the same time, and they can kick your ass. What’s more I got to introduce them in the ring, a real thrill. Juanita the Caring managed to cheap shot me before the match even began, dousing me with a gallon of cola and sending me ass over tea kettle on to the floor in the resulting melee. Unbelievable.
In contrast to quinoa, which is the super food that Bolivia exports all over the world, the potato which originated in the Andes (there are over 3,000 varieties) and is still Bolivia’s most essential food crop is rarely exported to the States. One unusual variety of Bolivian potato is rotten, black dried spuds. These Chunos or old potatoes are freeze dried in a five day process which makes them look like sugar coated cookies. They are exposed to very low night temperatures in the Andean Altiplano (the high area above La Paz), stomped on to dry them out, then exposed to the intense sunlight of the day. Inside they are black and “nasty”. In this form they last as a long as 25 years. And they all taste that way. I spent a day on Emertrio’s farm which he maintains with the help of his wife and 10 children. They sleep with their livestock, brew beer to keep their cows happy, air dry their own llama jerky, and cook all their meals on a small little clay vessel that they stuff with animal dung and place a pot on the top of the flue. They mostly eat a farmer’s soup of broth studded with vegetables like carrots and onions, rehydrated fava beans called abbas that have been toasted directly on the burning dung for a few minutes before going into the pot, dried llama, and chunos. Lots of chunos. To call this soup earthy is an understatement of dramatic proportions.
Santa Cruz is Bolivia’s most populous city but it has the feeling of a small town with its lack of high-rises and tropical atmosphere. It is a far cry from the Alto Plano. It is hot, humid and is the gateway to the Orient, the Bolivian rain forest. People still gather to visit on the main square and restaurants close daily for siesta. With the largest international community in the country Santa Cruz is not the Bolivia of llamas and cholitas. Instead overall-wearing Mennonites walk alongside bearded Russians, goth kids, Brazilian and Japanese immigrants. We drove south of the city a few hours, stopping along the way to buy achacharu, small tropical fruit that are a seeming cross between a passion fruit and a mangosteen. I ate 4 bags in one day. We dined at a riverside restaurant, well actually it’s a small hut. You order, they go out into the woods, kill what they need to fill your order and return to their endless chuggin' of beer diluted with warm Coca Cola. We ate fish, twice cooked feral pig and armadillo. It was extraordinary.
Regarded by the Inca as the birthplace of their civilization, Lake Titicaca is the world’s highest navigable lake. We ended out trip by heading out to this sacred area to be a part of an Apthapi, or Andean picnic. First, we were invited to a home to help a family prepare their contribution to the picnic. Overlooking the picturesque lake, families gather to eat together, sitting on the colorful blankets of their region. Each cholita brings a different dish. There is Lake Titicaca trout, like no other fresh-water trout in the world and ispis, the snack food of indigenous people in the area, a tiny fish which is fried whole, salted and served simply along with vegetables, quinoa dumplings, home made cheese, broiled llama and chunos. All of the food is spilled out on the ground to be eaten as we crouch by the shores of the lake, trying to stay out of the driving hailstorm that is pounding into us. A shaman burns a llama fetus, we sing a few songs, say some prayers, the elders eat a few fistfuls of coca and the sun comes out. I forget how cold I am, and pile back in the van and go to sleep. I’m stuffed.
Comments
YES, INDEED, Bolivia is rich in diversity in its flora, fauna and people, and since diversity is the ultimate spice of life, Bolivia is just right for the Travel Channel, as I recommended to Anthony Bourdain for his next NO RESERVATIONS show - BOLIVIA!!!!
http://yourtrip.travelchannel.com/clip.aspx?key=F1849C2279722EC2&ctx=toprated&type=video
It is a great opportunity for Anthony to explore a hidden jewel in many respects. Talk to Anthony and let him know of the beauty and delightful cuisine that is awaiting him in Bolivia!!!
He can spice up his show with diversity found in the heart of South America!
Posted by: Juan Carlos Cuellar | April 1, 2008 4:59 PM
You are right Bolivia has a varity of flavours and spices. How you described the varity of foods was right on point. I myself was born in Bolivia... Without spices and varity in bolivian food it would not be as unique. Although I was dissipointed when you didn't show the common meat that most bolivian's eat ..sillpancho. I loved this episode and am very happy that you showed Bolivia To people who have never heard or experienced what Bolivia has to offer. I recomand also that Anthony Bourdain should do an episode. He shouldn't be missing out on the spices and unique flavours Bolivia has to offer him.
Posted by: Jasira Barrientos | April 1, 2008 11:34 PM
I love Zimmern's program having watched it on a regular basis.Tonight, the three way clay stove (Bolivia) caught my eye. How do I get one?- short of an anticipated adventure there which is not feasible for a couple years.I would appreciate any information.D.T.
Posted by: Donna Thompson | April 1, 2008 11:42 PM
My dear Andrew: it was so nice to see someone of your caliber in my country to not critized it but to let people know that even if we are simple people we have a great diversity and welcome every one without any reservations.I would like to get this show of you in Bolivia,could let me know how to get it? Thanks for being in that show. JJ
Posted by: JUAN CARLOS JIMENEZ | April 2, 2008 12:35 AM
I want to commend you on your feature of Bolivia. My boyfriend and I are fans of your program, and we very much enjoy watching travel experiences from your perspective. Just wanted to let all the viewers know that the peach drink name is not in the Spanish language. There are two other official languages in Bolivia (we are also very diverse), and the literal translation is dehydrated peach. IT IS NOT A BOOGER DRINK. A non-English-speaker would be frightened by the literal translation of hot dog, so I hope you didn’t miss out on a delicious, refreshing drink made with peaches, sugar and cinnamon. I would say this merits a second visit, no? :) Thank you for showing the beauty of Bolivia. Happy travels.
PS -European (German) pharmacists helped break the down the composition of the coca leaf to concoct the illegal drug. Coco plant is rich in vitamins and nutrients and less than 1% is misused, so the herbal tea is harmless (healthier than coffee).
Posted by: Pamela Vasquez | April 2, 2008 12:58 AM
I can't believe you didn't eat rostro asado - a whole roasted lamb's head (no, I've never eaten it). I also think you missed out majorly if you didn't try anticuchos - skewered marinated beef heart. It's quintessential post-bar street food - and I'm pretty sure late night is the only time you can buy it. And salteñas - the empanada of Bolivia. Nothing bizarre about them, but they're fantastic.
All in all, it was a great episode that made me feel rather nostalgic. And my wife was shocked when I told her that yes, I know Vesna. Too funny.
Posted by: Oscar Bartos | April 2, 2008 2:58 AM
Okay, so I'm an idiot and I didn't read carefully - you did have anticuchos!
You underestimate coca tea - it's a great pain-killer and herbal remedy. And no, you won't get high off it.
Posted by: Oscar Bartos | April 2, 2008 3:01 AM
As an american married for 20 years to a boliviana, I must tell you that Bolivia is EXTRAORDINARY. I have traveled there many times and love the food, the people and of course the chica and Singani. My wife and I plan to spend six months in the US and six months in Bolivia when we retire. I cannot imagine a better place to be. Thank you for your observations.
Posted by: Don Voodre | April 2, 2008 11:22 AM
Hey Andrew, I'm really a big fan of your show because I myself like to eat anything out of the unusual. I am really happy that you got to visit my native country Bolivia, although my grandparents emigrated from Spain to Bolivia. If you could only imagine how many of my friends tell me, "What the hell is BOLIVIA!" But other than that thank you for visiting Bolivia, and I hope you liked it a lot that you can make a Part 2 travel to Bolivia. Except this time you can go to the wonderful city of Tarija which touches the border of Argentina, and the city of Oruro which is famous for the "Oruro Carnival that is held I think before or after Lent. Well thanks again Andrew.
Posted by: Jason Urquiola | April 2, 2008 12:01 PM
Andrew I'm from Santa Cruz Bolivia, and I was so excited when I knew that you'll show my city in your program, but then..... When it finished. mmm I'll say that I was disappointed. Because you missed a lot of things in Santa Cruz.
I understand that the weather does not help, and I know that in La Paz the things you were looking for are easily to find, but Santa Cruz has a lot of things that you can try in your next visit, for example panza rebosada, riñon al jugo, pacumutos de corazon de pollo, Caldo de Nervio, and also places where you can eat wild meat, all that besides the horneados Masaco de yuca, de platano, somo (I better stop because here in Vegas I can't find all that) maybe you did not get the right person to show you Santa Cruz. So in your next visit (I'm sure you'll be back) contact me so I can make the arrangements and you'll eat all this bizarre foods.
Anyways I'm happy that you were there and have the opportunity to show to your public something of my Bolivia, your program is wonderful and you are GREAT!!!
Posted by: Kenia Pardo | April 2, 2008 2:58 PM
I would like to say two words. Thank You. Andrew I deeply appreciate you going to Bolivia. I was extremely happy that you enjoyed our culture and cousine. I hope you get a chance to go back to Bolivia and go to Cochabamba, Copacabana, etc.. If you do I have places where you could get deliciously good bizarre foods. Thanks again and hope to see you back in Bolivia again.
Posted by: Luis Rojas | April 2, 2008 3:48 PM
Andrew, I love your show!! I would love for you to put Tunisia ( my country) on your list. You will find a country rich in culture and some pretty strange foods. My mother would love to cook for you!
Posted by: Raja | April 3, 2008 10:46 AM
First of all THANK YOU! for showing my wonderful country and some of their great things. Most of the time when we hear about Bolivia, we only hear negative things such as cocaine or that athletes can not compete at high altitudes. But your show showed that we have a lot of wonderful things. I can guarantee you that there is enough interesting material in Bolivia to produce many more. You showed parts of La Paz, and Santa Cruz, but even within those places each little town has its own characteristic and unique food. Thanks again, and please visit Bolivia many more times. You will never regret it.
Posted by: Antonio Vargas | April 3, 2008 4:14 PM
I'm 21 and love your show. Would you ever consider letting someone tag along on one of your trips. I would really love to try some of those bizarre foods. There is really no good place to experiance these dishes here and I really don't think it's safe to go to some of these places alone.
Posted by: Richard DeTerra | April 4, 2008 8:04 PM
Loved the Bolivia show. Since you are into bizarre foods I thought you might appreciate the bizarre food critic for The Ancient Times one Pavel Penguin.
Pavel Penguin is the big city’s most well-known and influential food critic whose free range extends into all the nooks and crannies of a hurried and hungry metropolis. You can check him out the following address http://www.pavelthepenguin.com/
Can’t wait for the next show and hope you like Pavel.
Raj [eat everything except penguins]
Posted by: Raj | April 5, 2008 3:01 PM
Hi everyone, I'm the fixer that BFWAZ used here in Bolivia, first of all, I would like to say, this was one of the nicest crews that I ever worked with. We had a blast. Even when we were tired, hungry (yes, hungry), cold, wet, or too hot and thirsty, we had a blast. A top notch crew, and I would like to congratulate the people at Tremendous for their choice. Second, I've been reading some of the posts, and yes all are right, we should have done more things in Santa Cruz, we should have gone to Tarija, we should have done rostro asado, etc... But, as everyone knows "Time is Money", and I think that, for one week, what was done, is perfect for what the program needs. I was glad I could help. Thank you Andrew, thank you Chris, Tacy, Coleen, Georgianna, Carrie, and a special thanks to big & little Luke and to big & little Jake. Tiwanacu!
And, Donna Thompson, if you really want that clay stove, please e-mail me: jaime@creaccion.biz.
Check out www.creaccion.biz, I will post pictures of this adventure next week.
Posted by: Jaime Teran | April 9, 2008 11:34 AM
I'm so glad that you finally went to Bolivia. I have traveled my share and Bolivia remains one of my favorite countries. I do disagree with your comment that Bolivians don't like anyone. Compared to other South American countries I received nothing but graciousness the entire length of my stay. If you ever have a chance to return, try a pampas tour out of Rurrenabaque.
Posted by: Mikaela Badzioch | April 15, 2008 10:48 PM
How are you able to down all of those foods? Do you ever throw up? I was just wondering if you could throw me a couple of tips on how to eat foods I don't like. Do you hold your nose? Just wondering.
Thanks,
Caleb S.
P.S.-You look like my uncle.
Posted by: Caleb S. | April 21, 2008 8:44 PM
The Pronto Restaurant is the best best restaurant in La Paz Bolivia Im from Colombia and when i visited Bolivia i at in Pronto Dalicatessen, the food is surreal and delicius
Posted by: Ricardo Samper | April 22, 2008 11:21 AM
Pronto Dalicatessen (Jauregui 2248 in Sopocachi): I love this place. The food is good, and really creative. It has nothing at all to do with a delicatessen, unless it is opposite day. The play is on the "Dali" - and the food is a bit surreal, but lovely. The service was excellent, and the ambiance top notch. I really like this place, and can't recommend it highly enough. Go there. It is relatively cheap, too, with a meal and a 1/2 bottle of wine only costing about $8.
Posted by: Joe Smith | April 22, 2008 11:26 AM
We loved the Bolivia show, and we love Quinoa. I've looked a lot for a recipe for any kind of quinoa dumpling and can't find one. Do you know one?
Travel safely!
Posted by: Claudia Mazur | May 28, 2008 1:19 PM