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Appalachia: Crème de la Crème
By Andrew Zimmern on May 5, 2009 12:00 AM | Permalink | 32 Comments
Central casting office from Deliverance. Speaking in tongues. Moonshine. Dolly Parton. If you listen to the ethnocentric pop culture Mandarins you would think the Appalachian Trail is littered with this hill country iconography. It's not. The trip we took through West Virginia, North Carolina and Tennessee was the crème de la crème of all our domestic shoots. Chic little restaurants in Asheville NC, killer barbecue stands on the rural highways in Tennessee, real country stores in the mountains of West Virginia where even the hams are cured on the premise. That's the Trail that I saw.
OK, so we saw a lot of moonshine too, but that was about it. The cities and the towns along the Appalachian Trail charmed me in a way that I didn't think possible for a born and bred NY-er. I ate fresh squirrel in West Virginia with the chef-owner of Ember, a cool dude named Brian Ball. We packed away chicken fried squirrel platters and plenty of other hill country treats but the best thing I ate the whole trip was a tomato and dumpling dish that was a recipe from his grandmother that he served as a side dish to our meal. He stews tomatoes and onions for his garden, then puts them up, and in the cool weather months brings a quart or so of this heavenly stuff to a boil, makes a quick dumpling mixture (think elegant Bisquik style stuff) and drops handfuls on top of the tomatoes, covers it and turns the heat down. 30 minutes later he dumps the whole thing into a bowl and serves it. It has to be tried to be believed.
Appalachia was settled by many different ethnic groups and there are still some places today where the people carry on the culture and traditions of their forefathers as they have for centuries. The tiny picturesque town of Helvetia, West Virginia, population 194, was founded by the Swiss and the ways of the old world are still a strong influence in the culture. I spent a night at The Hutte Restaurant operated by longtime local Eleanor F. Mailloux, where traditional Swiss food is still served and where all the local characters can be found dining and catching up on the local happenings. Eleanor says she is in her late 80's but her nieces and grandsons say she is over 100. We even met an 80 year old who told us Eleanor was his teacher in junior high school...She has her roots deeply planted in the Helvetia community. She is the owner/operator of the Beekeeper Inn and at times was a teacher, Director of the Helvetia Folk Dancers, President of the Alpen Rose Garden Club, Secretary of the Helvetia Restoration Club, and member of the Centennial History Committee, her role in keeping the community alive is substantial. I can also tell you she makes an amazing dance partner. The cuisine at the Hutte House is heavily influenced by the local Swiss/German culture and nobody understands this better than Eleanor who had her great grand kids shoot a deer and cook it in a pit, country style. The deer is buried with hot coals and cooked overnight. Eaten with plenty of homemade cheese, home brewed beer, and lots of boiled onion pie.
In Shelby NC, I attended the Livermush Festival with Ted Alexander, the Mayor of Shelby as my dining companion. Freckle faced kids in the parade, bottles of locally brewed Sundrop on ice, fried wedges of livermush on white bread with grape jelly and mustard smeared on all over it. Amazing. But not as awesome as spending a day on a trout stream with the lads from the local fly fishing school and then taking our catch up the hill to Johnny Sue Meyer's house for a real Cherokee feast with roasted bear, sumac tossed sautéed trout and chestnut bread. Listening to Johnny Sue's cousin say a Cherokee prayer in her native tongue, well I guess it's our native tongue actually, and enjoying traditional recipes that are as old as the Cherokee Nation was a special experience. These are the dying breed stories that we try to capture whenever we are on the road with our cameras.
I got to forage for wild mushrooms with Alan Muskat and then we were off to Tennessee where we ended our trip with a true mountain top cookout of possum and raccoon, serenaded by a local bluegrass group, at a 100 year old cabin in the hills. One guest was a storyteller by trade and another a weaver. Only in Tennessee. One of the guests at the dinner was a woman who was real 'hill people' as the uber locals are referred to. She had been rescued by a local university professor who heard of a woman loving with her children in a cave in the hills, a woman who had run away from her abusive husband to whom she had been 'sold' to satisfy her families debts many years earlier. This woman, who had experienced such tragedy in her life, was the kindest soul I had ever met. She coached me through my meal, doused corn bread in the pot liquor for me and cracked open the raccoon head so I could spread the brains on the hardtack they had cooked for our party. She gave me a wild chestnut that she had dried and polished to keen shine, telling me to keep the charm in my pocket to help me calm the worldly clamors that she felt were causing me great anxiety. I haven't taken it out of my pocket since that day.
If you think you know the Appalachians, guess again.
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I am so very excited for this episode of Bizarre Foods! I'm from Kentucky in the heart of Appalachia, I'm also Cherokee Indian, this episode is right to the root of my livly hood!
Oh Andrew, I am so pleased that you are visiting the Appalachian region during this episode and look forward to watching it. Not only do Tennessee, West Virginia and North Carolina rich in heritage, but Kentucky is as well. I challenge you to come to Kentucky and sample our world famous Burgoo at the Burgoo Festival in Lawrenceburg or take a trip down the Bourbon Trail. And the hot brown which was developed at the Brown Hotel in Louisvile... it's amazing! You'll see that the locations you visited in Appalachia were only just one section of a rich tapestry.
Oh Andrew, I am so pleased that you are visiting the Appalachian region during this episode and look forward to watching it. Not only do Tennessee, West Virginia and North Carolina have a rich heritage, but Kentucky does as well. I challenge you to come to Kentucky and sample our world famous Burgoo at the Burgoo Festival in Lawrenceburg or take a trip down the Bourbon Trail. And the hot brown which was developed at the Brown Hotel in Louisvile... it's amazing! You'll see that the locations you visited in Appalachia were only just one section of a rich tapestry.
Andrew, I am very excited to watch the Appalachian episode tonight. I am a lifelong resident of Helvetia, WV and am a sixth generation descendent of the Swiss immigrants that you discussed. One thing is for sure, Helvetia is a one-of-a-kind town. I am very glad that you were able to visit and enjoyed your time with us.
I agree, you're missing out by skipping Kentucky on your Appalachia trip. How about a Bluegrass State episode? Yes, taste burgoo, sample sour mash straight from the copper on the bourbon trail, drink mint juleps at the track... I hope you will!
Can't wait to see it! I've been going to Helvetia, WV my whole life and my brother is on the show. Deer meat is a very common food in my home and I'm glad to see other people get to experience it!
I am so glad you came to the Appalachia. I live in Asheville, NC. And until I started watching your show, I have been a very picky eater. I have I have stretched out my boundaries, when it comes to food, and I can't wait to find out what's cookin in my backyard! Thanks for being a culinary inspiration.
I love both Andrew Zimmern and his show..however, when I turned it on tonight to watch the Appalachian episode I was immediately distressed because NO ONE pronounces Appalachia correctly. The 3rd a is not a long a it is a short a and I guarantee you everyone in West Virginia pronounced it with a short a...help me here...say it correctly!!! Again...love the show!
the best bizarre food out there is military food and military ration. alot of different taboo about it. please look into it.
Hey, great show, I distinctly remember tossing out Appalachia as where I wanted you to travel during a live chat last year, giving a shout out to Helvetia, squirrels and all the other critters. Thanks for coming and making us proud.
Thank you so much for an honest portrayal of Appalachians, and especially West Virginia. For once...no jokes, no stereotypes, no bull. Come back for the 18th Annual WV Road Kill Cook-off • 26 Sept. 2009 in Pocahontas County, WV.
http://www.pccocwv.com/festival.htm
Really loved Andrew in Appalachia. He is so good with everyone he meets and interacts with. Spend a little more time in Appalachia, please.
Perhaps next time you could avoid the touristy towns of Asheville and Gatlinburg and come to REAL Appalachia-to Flag Pond, Tennessee. The 2nd Sat. of May we host the Ramp Festival. (No, we don't mean skateboards and bicycles but the herbivorous? bulb known as a ramp) And striped meat means bacon here.....Thank you for your consideration.
I have to chime in and agree with Susan. Andrew, I love you, but it's pronounced "Appa-latch-uh", not "Appa-laitch-uh". I don't know how you made it out of the area without someone correcting you. Both the town of Appalachia, Virgina and Appalachian State University, in Boone, North Carolina are pronounced the same way. Love the show, though!!
Andrew,
Thank you from the bottom of our hearts for visiting Wild and Wonderful West Virginia. Playing music for you and the gang was a treat, and getting to visit with you at Ember was fantastic. Your show is such a great way for so many people to "visit" parts of the world where they may never physically get to go. Thank you for the respect you show all parts of the globe and for the endearing and truthful way that you and your film crew portray all these wonderful places. Salute!
Andrew i just love your show. I dont miss one episode. Iam from georgia , so your episode about the appilachia hits home. You have opened my mind up about what is edible. continue the great work
Your show on “Appalachia” gets an A+. I have lived in West Virginia almost all of my life and you did a wonderful job of showing us as we are: A loving, strong, resilient people, who find joy in what life offers. Peace.
Your show on Appalachia was great. I am from southern WV and have spent most of my life living in the Appalachin Mountains (from WV to TN to NC). Come to Webster Springs, WV for ramps (wild leaks). Candace is correct in her comments about the pronunciation being "Appa-latch-a" in the overwhelming majority of the region. You are a great guy Andrew!
Great Show, loved all the wild game.
Could I get the recipe & cook time for the deer ? It looked really good.
Hi Andrew,
I am an avid fan and was so excited when I saw that you would be doing a show on Appalachia territory! My mother, 85 this year, who is the youngest of 10 girls, is the best cook in the world! She grew up in the mountains of SW Virginia. She would love to cook her "shuck beans" or "leather britches" for you, or squirrel and gravy, or our most favorite dishes, pickeled corn and mixed pickles, which ferments in a crock for a month. An acquired taste for sure! But soooooo good!
Oh Andrew
You cannot even pronounce Appalachia. It is Apple at cha. If you are going to go into a region, please educate yourself as how the area is pronounced. It is offensive and shows your ignorance.
I am sure that the people of Appalachia treated you with respect and courtesy. Please in the future, learn something about the area you are going into and treat the people that welcome you into their area with respect and at least learn to correctly pronounce the name of their area.
The show was good but would not have made me flinch if you had only not mispronounced continually the regions name. Or just not said it at all.
Andrew,
My husband and I love your show, but I have to agree with Tennessean. Your pronunciation of Appalachia was really offensive. I know we might be considered uneducated hillbillies, though I'm sure you've learned by visiting our region that we are indeed educated and well mannered. We truly love your show and watch it faithfully. However, on future ventures, you might want to do a little research on the areas you're going into and get the pronunciation correct. No long a's....App-a-latcha. I seriously doubt you'd like being called "Ane-drew".
What about Maryland? It is on the Appalachian trail.
Thanks Andrew!! Your coming to the hills of West Virginia was so very exciting! You are the first to bring a camera in these hills and capture the truth -unlike the rest of the world who think they are entering Buck Tooth Redneck country!
I am a life long resident of Greenbrier Co. a small town of Frankford the same size as Helvetia! We are only a hour south of SnowShoe- So you must have passed thru on your way! If you want to experience Appalachian Life to it's fullest, (Ramp Digging on Cold Knob-too beautiful for words- to Bear Hunting on Kate's) Come on back- Once you are here you're family!! God bless, Jo
P.S.- Get over it Ya'll! The rest of the World pronounces it wrong as well! Go to Boston sometime!!
As I was watching this episode I was wondering if you ever feel like you should say that something is tasty only because someone invited you to thier home and were hospitable and you didn't want to offend them. For instance when the nice woman cooked the bear meat I just wondered to myself if you were really being honest about it, or just being a good guest.
I really enjoy the show, but just wondering if you would actually tell someone that you didn't like something if you didn't?
Great show! I live in the very southern tip of Ohio, practically West Virginia, and I am so happy that you portrayed the people of the region correctly. I only wish you could have tried ALL of the great foods Appalachia (He can say it however he wants to pricks)has to offer. For example, ramps, morel and peckerhead mushrooms, paw paws,persimmons,fresh frog legs....the list goes on
Thanks
Heyhey, is there a way to mailorder Mack's Livermush? I have read about it and now seeing it on your Appalachia show, I would love to try some. Thanks.
Watched the Appalachia episode this a.m. and was drooling over the squirrel, which has ALWAYS been good food. I keep a list of restaurants I'd like to try (if in the vicinity). I looked over the Ember website and squirrel was nowhere on the menus. Was this special for T.V? What am I missing here? I don't get it.
I recently saw this episode in rerun today. Now, normally I would've flipped right past this type of show, but was caught when I heard the mention that he was trying livermush in NC. I eventually heard the name of the city he was in, Shelby. Being from VERY near Shelby, actually attending high school in the same county, I am grateful that he brought this North Carolina "delicacy" to all of America. I move to Georgia last year and was confused as to why there is no livermush here. Now I know that it's a Carolina 'thang'. FYI: I'm a mustard person. lol.
P.S. Michael(27), you can find the phone # for the company based out of Shelby NC on the internet. You can try to call them and see if it can be shipped out to you in a different way, because normally it's shipped to stores within the area around Shelby in small refrigerated box trucks. They would have to ship in a different way to you if they did.It doesn't hurt to ask!
Great Show...would love to have pit-cooked deer recipe and cooking info! My husband and his family LOVE to eat venison, and I think this would go over huge as a family treat!
I loved the pit cooked deer recipe, but need to know how long do you cook it.