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Botswana: The Kalahari
By Andrew Zimmern on September 15, 2009 9:00 PM | Permalink | 26 Comments
I get asked the same questions all the time. You can probably guess them yourself pretty accurately ...
What's the weirdest thing you ever ate?
What's the worst thing you ever ate?
Does your family eat such an adventurous diet?
Do you ever get sick on the road?
Do you really do all that stuff yourself, jump off mountains, swim with sharks, eat rotted foods, or is it ever faked?
And so on ...But until I flew into Xai Xai, in the Aha Hills of Botswana and was greeted with boundless enthusiasm and grace by Ralph Bousfield, I never had a good answer to the question "what's the greatest trip you have ever taken, the one trip above all others that continues to thrill you just to think back on it?"
I had flown into South Africa and over-nighted at an airport hotel after a grueling 22 hours of flying. The next morning I flew to Maun, Botswana, arguably the busiest hub for small planes in the Southern Hemisphere. It is here that small 4-seaters from all around the Kalahari come to pick up their charges, eager and fresh-faced for the trip of a lifetime. I was greeted by a bush pilot, who threw my bags in the back of his plane, secured them with a seatbelt, threw me into the co-pilot seat and took off across the Okavango Delta for the grass airfield in Xai Xai. We had a flight plan, but were on our own schedule so the pilot obliged me each time I asked him to take it down and circle massive herds of elephants, grazing giraffes, water buffalo splashing in the muddy drinking holes, farm house clusters of grass buildings and so on. The Delta teems with the greatest concentration of wild animals on the continent and I was glued to the window for the 2-hour flight. We landed, greeted by the entire village for whom an airplane is still a rare sight and met Ralph. Ralph's family came to Botswana over 100 years ago and his father was the most famous Great White Hunter of his era, still holding the record for crocodile kills in the Guinness Book of World Records. Ralph's dad, Jack, saw the forest for the trees way before everyone else and hung up his rifle in his prime, deciding that preservation and education was what was needed most in Botswana and devoted the rest of his life to that end, and Ralph has continued the tradition, running a company called Uncharted Africa, the finest outfitter I have ever had the experience of travelling with. Ralph drove us an hour across the desert (hard-pack scrub growth thorns, head-high bush and red clay dirt, no sand in sight) to our base camp and we unpacked in a hurry. I was greeted by all the members of Ralph's team who didn't come out to the airfield to say hi and the rest of our production unit, and we raced off to meet the family group of 22 tribes-people who are San, the legendary bushmen of the Kalahari.
We slept in tents each night, going to sleep to the sounds of leopards and baboons prowling outside our tent (really), the trills of night flying birds and the and singing of the San. We woke each morning before dawn, ate hurriedly and walked the 400 yards to the cluster of grass huts that the San live in. We started our day with them as soon as time allowed and we ended our day at sunset each night by wishing them good evening and they to us, as we headed exhausted back to our campsite to wash up, eat dinner and pass out, rising again to begin fresh the next day.
In this show we were faithful to the documentary process in that we include almost every little taste of our adventure with you, and not only was this the most exciting and revelatory travel experience of my life, I think it is the finest hour of television I have ever been associated with. I don't want to ruin a minute of it for you but suffice to say when you are getting an archery lesson at sunset from an 80-year-old shaman using a bow and arrow set he made for you an hour earlier and a black mamba snake (one of the world's deadliest predators of any species) attacks the camp and you get to bring that kind of action to bear in your show, well, things are looking pretty good from an entertainment standpoint.
You really have to see this program for yourself.
Africa has been my favorite travel destination for the last few years now, the adventures and experiences I have had in Morocco, Egypt, Ethiopia, Uganda, Tanzania, South Africa, Sudan and Algeria both making our TV shows and as a civilian are among my fondest and most thrilling memories. Botswana now stands atop my list of all-time fave locales to travel to and I cant wait to see my friend Ralph again. I can't say enough about Uncharted Africa and the people of Xai Xai and the tribes of the Aha Hills.
PS. The answers to the first set of Q's is roasted porcupine skin, 14-day-old stinky tofu at Dai's House of Unique Stink in Taipei (the 2-day-old stuff on the street vended from small carts is delicious), no, no and finally ... of course I do it all, if you see it, it's real, and we never ever stage or fake anything.
26 Comments
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Andrew, I just watched the Kalahari episode. It's absolutely one of the best episodes ever and I was truly fascinated and deeply moved by those people and your incredible bonding experience with them. It's so amazing, Andrew! Thank you!
Andrew,
I watched your new show Bizzare World. And tonight I was facinated with the people of the Kalahari. They are really facinating and seeing how people can be happy and being close to family is amazing. Keep up the good work. Since I don't get to travel you help me to see the world and understand that we all are unique in this big world.
Andrew, the people of Botswana are truly some of the most kind and unique people you will find in this world. You captured one of the most lovely countries and made me homesick in the process. I hope you got to try some Biltong during your travels. I can't wait for next week for your adventures in South Africa.
Dear Andrew,
After experiencing your episode on the Xai Xai last night I am still stunned at the quality of the production; it was absouletly an exceptional and compelling work of ethnographic art. I am a PhD medical anthropologist and my first experience in Botswana was in 1985 as a college student volunteer with Operation Crossroads Africa (the model JKF later used in forming the Peace Corps). A few years later I conducted pre-doctoral research on care for the elderly and developed lasting relationships that I treasure. Thank you for letting me re-live similar experiences and I truley envy your talent and am thankful for the new cultural/experiential approach to Bizzare World. That show was a masterpiece and hands down superior to any ethnographic film I ever used in teaching about the peoples of Botswana. With gratitude, Jamie
That was one of the best show I've ever watched! I would do anything to experience a day with those amazing people.They are very spiritually advanced people. I am on a spiritual journey and America is the wrong place for me to do that. Your show really opened my eyes. I've never seen happier people in my life! Keep up the good work.
The Botswana episode was fascinating for me. You captured the true essence of a kinder gentler world that we as American humans have long long forgotten. I was reliving your experiences with the people in my head all day today. Thank you for reminding me that life can be simpler and happier.
This was an amazing show!! My son and I love your show, watch every single one together (including the foods!), but this particular one was astouding, impactful and beautiful. What an amazing display of humanity, reminding us of why we are here and how far removed our culture is from connecting with truly divine living. We have much to learn from the beautiful people of the Kalahari.
Watching the Botswana episode has made me very gracious for what I have. My mother has traveled to Kenya to the slums and did missionary work. Between the two of you guys, I think I have too much and waste way too much as well. Be thankful for what you have, little or lots. Work together and things can get done. Stick to your roots, they are precious to the family. Also, who cares what others think of you. Be who you are and be proud of who you are. If Kalahari can do it, we can do it! Thanks Andrew for really opening my eyes.
Watching the Botswana episode has made me very gracious for what I have. My mother has traveled to Kenya to the slums and did missionary work. Between the two of you guys, I think I have too much and waste way too much as well. Be thankful for what you have, little or lots. Work together and things can get done. Stick to your roots, they are precious to the family. Also, who cares what others think of you. Be who you are and be proud of who you are. If Kalahari can do it, we can do it! Thanks Andrew for really opening my eyes.
I was so in awe watching this episode. I am always inspired by how you bring out all the goodness that everyone in the world has. We could learn so much from the San, especially respect for others, which I feel as Americans we sometimes lack. I am an anthropologist/historian (in process) and your show makes me want to travel and experience all the different cultures this world has. I cried along with you :)
Thank you for a great program.
Christine, Upstate New York
I agree with everyone that this could be your very best episode... Some years ago I had the previlage to travel that part of the world and Andrew you brought back so many cherished memories.
I'm kind of bummed Andrew. I'm staying in a hotel and can't get your show. So, I read your blog just to see what I'm missing out on!!
Andrew,
I really enjoyed watching the Kalahari Show. It was eductional and learned alot; there are still people who live in old ways... and your humor makes me laugh! :)
Andrew,
I really enjoyed watching the Kalahari Show. It was eductional and learned alot; there are still people who live in old ways... and your humor makes me laugh! :)
Wow what a show that was! That was the best yet! It's funny, sitting here so far away watching a totally different life, I would normally feel so detached here in America from that world, but your interactions with the group showed how real they are, and rather than me thinking of the things they don't have, I found myself thinking what I don't have in my world. I was in a sort of envy of those people.
Their play acting of you and the crew were hilarious and so genuine. I was glued to the show. Thanks...Betsy - Estes Park, Colorado
I am originally from Botswana. I am a big fan of your shows. I haven't been back home in 12 years and this was really great. I was crying right along with you. Thanks, man.
Andrew,
Loved your show. They are truely amazing people and certainly understand the deeper meaning of life. I also was crying along with you.
Thanks
Janet
I am touched when seeing Andrew crying on camera, it's a moment of "indescribable" for humankind. What a great lesson!
GO TO PALAU! It will be the most BIZARRE thing you would experience. Well, maybe not but you would have a great experience there. Good food and good hospitality!
Ever considered going to Palau? An island southeast to the Philippines. The locals would treat you right! Last time I was there, I was in love with the water. Great scenery and the food, the traditional Palauan food is fantastic. There's some bizzare things that they eat, such as Fruitbats. Check it out sometime!
I too have had an adventure, I can't tell you where, but that you lose all touch of reality and magic and love infect your soul. Your Kalahari episode was quite powerful, moreso than any show I've ever witnessed, other than in person. Where love and spirit made the amazement happen. I wondered if you, like I, had trouble "reintegrating" back into our world. Did you find yourself thanking people more, wanting more pure love than judgment and triviality and the day to day grind? It was sure hard for me.
I actually had to take a long time to realize that I was back, even longer to get my brain back to close to "everyone elses'" I'm still not there and it has been 8 years. I know I am a better, more pure person for it, but man... I also didn't have to deal with a camera crew, etc.
Good luck to you, friend.
i love your shows andrew but i think you should go to GUATEMALA it's a beautiful place.
I am looking for what you called "the new popcorn." I am a care giver for a woman who loved popcorn but because of health reasons can no longer enjoy it. I thought it would be great to try but don't remember the grain and have been unable to locate it. If you could help me out we would greatly appreciate it.
I am looking for what you called "the new popcorn." I am a care giver for a woman who loved popcorn but because of health reasons can no longer enjoy it. I thought it would be great to try but don't remember the grain and have been unable to locate it. If you could help me out we would greatly appreciate it.
Andrew,
I am a long time fan. I watched the South Africa segment today on DVR. Are you aware that in the 14th minute when the swank dancers are dressing one of them is weraing a ring with a very distinct Swatstika on it? I believe it was unintentional but I found it very disturbing.
Andrew,
Even though im only 12 I find your shows fascinating. Since I am from Saudi Arabia I sorta know the Bizare world....
Rick,
You commented about the Swastika or something.. I think it used to mean goodluck or something of the sort so maybe thats why they had it on the ring...